One of my favourite views is from Douglas Head looking across the bay towards Onchan Head, with distant views of our lovely landscape. Both headlands have an interesting history, particularly associated with the tourist industry.
So this week, we will take a look back at both. Am I the only one who, whilst stood on Douglas Head in the 1970s on a clear day, could hear Billy Moore—who operated the go-karts at White City—on his PA saying: ‘One way round… no bumping!… red pedal, red pedal!’ as exuberant drivers got carried away?
These days, the building at Douglas Head comprises apartments, many with a spectacular view, but it wasn’t always the case.
The Douglas Head Hotel was built around 1869-70. It was constructed by Major Goldie-Taubman of the Nunnery. The design included incorporating a daymark tower from earlier times—the ‘Herring Tower’ style—which had served as a navigational marker before the hotel was built.
The hotel catered heavily to the influx of tourists during the peak of the island’s tourism boom.
Apart from the accommodation, it had a number of recreational facilities including a bowling green where visitors paid 3d to use the green, a dancing platform and pavilion, archery, quoits, and Aunt Sally (a traditional English pub/fair type game—no, I didn’t know either!).
The hotel had rooms of antiquities and curiosities that were open to all, whether or not they were staying in the hotel.
Outside, there was a model of the Laxey Wheel. Near the hotel, a big attraction was the Great Union Camera Obscura, built in the 1890s, around which were amusements and a toboggan slide.
The Warwick Tower, with a revolving observatory platform and steam-powered lift, was erected in 1899.
It was spectacular but suffered fire damage the next year and again later, and was eventually demolished. The amphitheatre is still in place, where in the open air, minstrels, pierrots, vocalists and so on performed during the season to large audiences.
There was a funicular/incline railway (or tram), 330ft long, up the slope of the head to help access all the activities.
I read a suggestion that there may even have been a roller coaster or some other type of ride. An electric tramway also ran along Marine Drive.
If walking up to the head past the Fort Anne, there were many sideshows along the way. There were in fact three funicular systems on our island, the others being at the Falcon Cliff and Port Soderick.
Many of my generation will recall the Douglas Head Hotel bar ‘The Fisherman’s Kitchen’ and the large concert room at the back, which was a great venue for live music.
It had previously been used for acts due to appear outside if the weather was inclement (I know, the sun always shines through the summer!) and sources suggest the room could become ‘uncomfortably crowded’. In those days, the entertainment included bands, comedians, novelty acts and singers.
When I became a regular customer, we were entertained with live rock music, with bands such as Jo Public featuring theatrics from our own Frank Magee—my particular favourite being their cover of ‘Psycho Killer’ by Talking Heads.
Black Mass were always very popular, and my choice would be ‘Smoke on the Water’ by Deep Purple. With Nasty Piece of Work, my pick would be ‘Strange Kind of Woman’, again from Deep Purple, which Jerry Christian excelled in. Other bands included Debris, Oasis, Sorcerer and more… remind me!
Ok, let’s take the funicular down from Douglas Head, cross over on a ferry boat with a fiddle player entertaining us, and take the Douglas Bay Horse Tramway right across the prom before jumping on the Manx Electric Railway at Strathallan up to the Onchan Head halt for White City… (if only!).
White City was already operating by 1908 or earlier, according to the iMuseum. In the mid-1980s, the site was cleared and completely redeveloped for housing in the 1990s.
Most remembered was probably the rickety wooden roller coaster.
I’m not good with heights, so the bit at the start was a little scary for me, but it was a very popular attraction even then. It was a traditional wooden ‘out and back’ style coaster, typical of the early 20th century, constructed in timber trestle style, operated with small open carriages and prominently visible all around.
How about the ghost train? A spooky ride including a Dracula figure in its décor.
The dodgems were another popular attraction.
I don’t remember myself, but I am told that at one time there was a ‘Wall of Death’ motorcycle stunt show, a great bucking bronco thrill ride and an ‘Indian Theatre’ with ‘cultural themed’ performances.
There was open-air roller skating and a number of refreshment stalls for food, drinks and snacks. I also remember the prize bingo, which always attracted big crowds. Anything I have missed? Please get in touch!
One of our Manx characters was Des Collins, who together with Percy Wilson established the successful steel supply and erection business of Wilson and Collins.
I don’t remember why or the exact date, but he had the idea of a boating lake where the go-karts had been.
Ronnie Russell, who had ridden for Wilson and Collins in the Manx Grand Prix, was engaged to construct the fibreglass boats with Honda engines from scratch, and to help in making the lake, following which he was to operate the boats.
The venture was not really a success, possibly because it was at a time of decline in tourism.
As I have a bit of time left after my visits to Douglas Head and Onchan Head with White City, I thought I would come back home via Cunningham’s Holiday Camp—another place that provided amusements and facilities when I was a boy.
I spent lots of time at the camp, either walking or going on my bike to the Victoria Road complex. Another way to access the camp, which I remember clearly, was the moving escalator which operated only in an upward direction from the fairly grand entrance off the promenade.
It was a seated operation, which again I recall being a little rickety, and obviously pre-dated modern health and safety.
The facilities I most enjoyed at the holiday camp were the roller skating, heated swimming pool and 10-pin bowling.
Looking back further, the entertainment for happy holidaymakers (and locals!) included a large hall for dances, concerts and social functions, a free cinema show each night for campers, comfortable lounges for quiet games, rooms for indoor games like table tennis, outside miniature golf, tennis courts, a cricket pitch, football ground, bowling green and so much more.
As an advocate for the benefits of tourism—not only to the economy but also for the local population in terms of additional facilities to enjoy—I think investment and encouragement of tourism would pay dividends, particularly as the Steam Packet is now publicly owned.
The most regular comment to me is the cost of access. Every encouragement should be given to government, businesses and the ferry operator working closely together, promoting deals especially for visitors for tourism events, with the opportunity to grow numbers. Everyone would potentially benefit.